There is a double wash hand basin made from local sandstone in the bathroom but as water is in short supply there is no bath and instead there are walk-in showers and a separate toilet. There is a backdoor into an enclosed private area with an outside shower.

The overall effect is of large and gracious rooms which taken with the outside private terrace are in effect private suites. They are flooded with light and the desert landscape, which gives the constant procession of game and birdlife providing all the colour and texture one needs.

"Exist in harmony with the landscape despite the ultimate contradiction."

The same palette is used through the public areas, texture being provided by woven chairs and the use of flint in the walls. The organic forms and natural colours provide a neutral environment in the hotel which, given the drama of the landscape and especially the dunes, provide an oasis of calm for the guest.

The difference between the three star experience provided in Damaraland Lodge and this the four star experience is noticeable in the size and permanence of the rooms, the service levels and the quality of the food service. The operator now boasts 63 lodges across Africa and the Seychelles and in all the emphasis is on the wilderness and the relationship with the wildlife.

Drawing its clientele from the rich and sophisticated people from urban centres places a focus on the quality of the hotel experience, as well as the experience of landscape. The operator needs to strike a balance between satisfying the guest expectation whilst remaining in touch with local traditions.

At Little Kulala the operator generally succeeds in this. The robustness of the transport was demonstrated when the soft sand of the Sossusvlei sucked a tyre off our LandRover. The mix of the wilderness and hospitality at this level of sophistication emphasised the clever styling of the interiors and their emphasis on the natural material and finishes, making the hotel exist in harmony with the landscape despite the ultimate contradiction of such luxury in such an area where survival for most life forms was marginal.